After Lanzhou, we took a fast train to Zhangye, located at the heart of the Hexi corridor, which was one of the main west-east axis of the silk road. On a day trip from Zhangye we visit a series of beautiful series of buddhist temples known as Mati Si. The temples are carved on the flanc of a mountain, some of them containing several floors of caves decorated with statues and paintings.
Tuesday, 6 November 2018
Gansu - Bingling Si
Arrived to Beijing, we flew to Lanzhou, in the Gansu province in China. From there, we planned a day trip to Bingling temple, south west of Lanzhou. To reach Bingling, we took a taxi until the Liujiaxia reservoir lake, and then a boat from the lake shore, I am guessing somewhere close to Hexinping, although not sure where exactly: it was the taxi driver who brought us to a peer where boats were departing.
The location of the temple complex is stunning and the temples are composed of a series of grottoes containing several statues, dispersed along a beautiful clay coloured valley.
The statues included the huge 27m Buddha pictured below.
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Trekking day 8: Zaouiat Oulmzi to Tabant
Easy day walking in the beautiful Ait Bouguemez valley, crossing several villages and green cultivated fields. We reached our accomodation in Tabant by the end of the day.
cultivated fields in the ait bouguemez valley
village in the ait bouguemez valley
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Trekking day 7: Zaouiat Ahansal to Zaouiat Oulmzi
Upon advice of our host at Zaouiat Ahansal, we decided to skip the section of the trek that would take us southwest of Taghia, through the planes of Tilamsine. The main issue was the difficulty to find water in Tilamsine. We had to spend 2 days in the plane and with the hot weather, we would need a lot of water but all the sources were dry, according to our host. On his advice we took the bus a few kilometers west of Zaouiat Ahansal to a small settlement called Rnes, just north of Jbel Ouzzourkl. From the turn on the road just before Rnes, a well marked path goes around the east slope of Jbel Ouzzourkl and turns back to the west towards the Tizi Las pass, joining the path that we were originally supposed to follow.
descending from Tizi Las
After the pass, we continued down to the Ait Bouguemez valley, via Zaouiat Oulmzi. We camped already in the valley, close to Iglaouane.
first view of the ait bouguemez valley
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Trekking day 6: Zaouiat Ahansal, Taghia
The Taghia valley
Taghia village
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Trekking day 5: Taguertoucht to Zaouiat Ahansal
The toughest day of the hike: crossing the desert planes southwest of Ait Touss until we reached the pass close to Jbel Issif. Then down the pass and across Tizi n'Fzat to finally reach Zaouiat Ahansal after 13h of walking under 32C...
Desert planes southwest of Ait Touss
The longer day than expected was due to a map reading error. After Ait Touss we came across a dry lake where a few people gathered around a providential well. After quenching our thirst we continued and reached a pasture were we took a wrong right. The wrong path led us to a small settlement and a dangerous encounter with a unfriendly dog. Saved by the herder who was kind enough to take us back to the good path, we finally reached the pass.
Looking down the pass above Tissalmit and the valleys leading to Zaouiat Ahansal
We arrived exhausted to Zaouiat Ahansal and decided to stay the night at a hostel, the Gite Oued Ahansal.
The village of Zaouiat Ahansal
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Trekking day 4: Batli to Taguertoucht
From Batli we climbed the left margin of Assif Melloul towards the south leaving the Assif Melloul canyon behind us and heading to the planes of Taguertoucht.
Leaving the settlement of Batli and, with it, the Assif Melloul canyon
Arriving to Taguertoucht
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Trekking day 3: Toussefsedi to Batli part 2
The second day passed in the Assif Melloul canyon saw us endlessly crossing the river from shore to shore until we reached the few houses that constitute the settlement called Batli, where we camped for the night.
River crossings in the Melloul canyon
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Trekking day 2: Toussefsedi to Batli part 1
We had expected to reach Batli by the end of this day. But walking deeper and deeper into the Melloul canyon, with the rugged red walls leaning on us menacingly, we soon realized we underestimated the number of river crossings and didn't choose the best strategy for our shoes... our water shoes were too thin to walk on land and we lost too much time swapping shoes...
Assif Melloul Canyon
We were therefore obliged to camp a little more than halfway to Batli, on a small beach that adorned a wide turn of the Melloul.
Camping in the canyon
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Trekking day 1: Ilmilchil to Toussefsedi
First day, from Ilmilchil to Toussefsedi. We walked along the wide green valley of the Assif Melloul, with several small villages along the way.
The Assif Melloul valley, close to Ilmilchil
At the village called Ou El Ghazi, perched on a small hill, we stopped for lunch. From Ou El Ghazi, the Assif Melloul valley gets narrower and villages get scarce.
The village of Ou El Ghazi
The afternoon was made of several river crossings until we reached the settlement of Toussefsedi, with a few houses perched on a rocky hill. We set our tent.
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Sunday, 4 March 2018
Wednesday, 28 February 2018
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